This shopping guide has something for everyone with over 15 rugs in the budget-friendly and splurge categories.

We’ve included a variety of colors, materials, and designs, and the answers to common questions that will ensure you purchase the best rug for you!

Related: Best Coffee Tables (Splurge + Save), Best Dressers (Splurge + Save) and Full Length Mirrors (Splurge + Save).

How to Choose a Living Room Rug:

Before we dive into the best living room rugs, here are some basic guidelines when shopping for one:

• Material: The most used fabrics for living room rugs are jute, synthetic fibers, and wool. These materials are great for high-traffic areas and easier to clean.
  
• Size: The most popular living room rug size is 9×12, but this measurement really depends on the size your room and the furniture you have in it. Be sure to measure your space first.

• Color: Lighter rugs can make a room appear larger, while darker rugs can make a space feel more cozy and intimate.

Do I Need to Buy a Rug Pad?

We recommend purchasing a rug pad to go with your new living room rug. There are budget options that prevent slipping and pads like this that also provide support and cushioning. A pad will also keep your rug from damaging the floor underneath.

Miscellaneous Tips:

• How to Uncurl a New Rug
• The Best Spot Remover for rugs

Splurge Living Room Rugs:

Jonathan Adler

Lisbon Rug

Elsie has been using the Lisbon rug for three years and it’s held up beautifully. It’s comfortable, easy to clean, and so unique compared to to other rug designs. You can see how she styled it in her green living room tour.

Rugs Direct

Persian Rug

This Loloi rug has a gorgeous Persian print inspired by authentic antique textiles. The premium blend of fibers make it both durable and soft, and it’s available in three colors.

One reviewer said, “Exactly what I was looking for and the quality is great. I’m remodeling a 1950s cabin and wanted a look that didn’t scream new build.”

West Elm

Souk Wool Rug

When we think of a classic and dependable area rug, the Souk rug makes the list every time.

It has a minimal, neutral pattern that goes with virtually any living room, and it has amazing texture and thick tassels. This rug is available in three colors and a machine washable version.

Serena & Lily

Woven Jute Rug

You can’t go wrong with a natural jute rug. This Serena & Lily rug has a two-toned diamond pattern that would add warmth and texture to a living room. This rug is woven with natural and bleached fibers, and it’s a great neutral for a colorful space.

Anthropologie

Colorful Tufted Rug

If your living room needs something bold and colorful, this tufted rug is a perfect choice. It’s suitable for high-traffic areas, and like most Anthropologie rugs, has so much character!

One reviewer said, “This rug is absolutely perfect. I love the playful shapes and colors, it’s soft and easy to clean, and stands up well to my cat scratching.”

Rugs Direct

Checkered Rug

This ivory wool rug has extra detail with small squares throughout. Although it’s in the “splurge” category, it’s the most affordable on the list. This rug is a timeless choice for any living room, and the rug that Elsie has in her pink house.

One reviewer said, “It really ties everything together and makes our place feel homey. I’m impressed by the quality and price.”

Rugs Direct

Blush Textured Rug

This beautiful rug has a two-toned blush and beige medallion design with an antique feel. It’s made from plush premium wool and viscose for a subtle sheen. If you love this pattern, it’s also available in blue and grey.

One reviewer said, “This rug is well made. The color is more on the tan side than the pink side. We love it!”

Rugs Direct

Ivory Cowhide Rug

Cowhide rugs are easy to clean and maintain due to their durability and handmade construction. This rug (available in two colors) has incredible dimension and the unique design would be fun for a living room or den (like Elsie’s).

One reviewer said, “The color is a mix of white, off-white and ivory, so it works with a lot of things. It’s well worth the price!”

Now, for the save category—there are so many great rugs to choose from!

Budget Living Room Rugs:

Amazon

Diamond Pattern Rug

This best-selling shag rug reminds us of a bolder version of the Souk rug from West Elm. It’s a non-shedding rug that’s easy to take care of—especially in high-traffic areas. This rug is available in 14 colors and has over 10K reviews!

One reviewer said, “Love this rug! Was looking for something durable and nice to look at. This will be perfect since I have 3 kids.”

Rugs USA

Fringed Medallion Rug

If you’re looking for a vintage-inspired rug, this fringed medallion design is a great option. It’s made to withstand high-traffic areas like a living room, and it’s super soft to walk on. This popular rug is available in 11 color combinations.

One reviewer said, “Amazing colors, super soft, and it looks way more expensive than it is.”

Amazon

Woven Jute Rug

Jute rugs are sustainable and affordable. Elsie swears by this rug and has used it time and time again in her home. This neutral color goes with everything, and this rug is available in 11 versatile colors.

One reviewer said, “This jute rug is not only beautiful, but it’s very soft on your feet. It lays perfectly with no wrinkles.”

Wayfair

Woven Arches Rug

This striped arched rug adds a fun vibe to a room, and it’s a fraction of the price of the Arches rug from Lulu & Georgia. The fabric is stain-resistant (so it’s perfect if you have pets or kids at home) and it’s available in two colors.

One reviewer said, “Amazing and well made. I fell in love with this rug online but it’s more beautiful in person.”

Wayfair

Wool Terrazzo Rug

Laura has this terrazzo rug in her pink living room. We love the vintage-inspired pattern and the dusty pink color is fresh and fun. This rug is also available in ivory and navy blue.

One reviewer said, “It’s gorgeous. There are metallic threads in it, which you can’t see from the pictures. And this size of rug for the price is incredible.”

Etsy

Woven Jute Rug

We love supporting Etsy sellers, and Dhurrie World is one of Elsie’s favorite shops to buy rugs from. This scalloped jute rug is handcrafted in India and would add a unique touch to any living room. Plus, it’s extremely affordable with free shipping.

One reviewer said, “The cutest rug ever. It was a leap of faith to order knowing it was coming from so far, but the quality is excellent and shipping was quick.”

Target

Geometric Shag Rug

The Opalhouse line at Target is known for its cute and affordable decor, and this geometric shag rug does not disappoint. It has an eclectic mix of colors and a detailed, vintage design.

One reviewer said, “We bought it for our apartment and it is perfect. It’s very soft, easily vacuumed, and holds up well even with a toddler and a 5-year-old.”

Amazon

Plush Moroccan Rug

This cute rug is machine woven for long lasting durability and no shedding. It’s also stain-resistant (a huge plus!) and has a Moroccan design, making it very versatile. This rug is available in nine colors.

One reviewer said, “The price is incredible and it definitely matches the quality. It ties my living room together, it’s easy to vacuum, and looks great!”

Links: Colorful Tufted Rug / Lisbon Rug / Woven Jute Rug / Souk Wool Rug / Blush Textured Rug / Cowhide Rug / Persian Rug / Checkered Rug

Links: Diamond Pattern Rug / Fringed Medallion Rug / Woven Jute Rug / Wool Terazzo Rug / Woven Arches Rug / Geometric Shag Rug / Scalloped Jute Rug / Plush Moroccan Rug

Shopping for More Home Decor Items?

• The Cutest Sofas Under $1,000
• The Best Blackout Curtains
• Best Round Dining Room Tables
• The Best Floral Wallpaper
• 25+ Round Coffee Tables

In the end, it was so worth it because I absolutely love our living room and our family enjoys it every day—from reading books by the fireplace to listening to our favorite records and doing puzzles.

I struggled with our living space’s open floor plan and sought out solutions to make each space feel distinct and individual. In addition to adding arched openings, we did a floor-to-ceiling mid-tone green in the living room to give the space its own personality.

Related posts: How to Draw a Floor Plan, How to Hang Curtains, Entryway Decor and Wallpapered Ceiling, Library Dining Room.

This space is one of the biggest transformations I have ever been a part of. Please feel free to audibly gasp when you see the before photo below.

If you look closely, you will spot dozens of small changes, but at a glance it appears that the glow-up is 90% “the power of paint.”

Here’s a quick overview of the remodels we did: Replaced tile floors for hardwoods, rebuilt the fireplace from scratch, reconfigured lighting (and added a chandelier), and moved the air vent to make room for our giant wall of built-ins.

Green Built-in Shelves:

The green built-in shelves add storage and do so much for the room, visually. We store a large percentage of our children’s toys in the cabinets as well as our record collection.

I opted for shelves that are not adjustable, so I spent a lot of time thinking about how we would use them and made sure they were big enough to display our largest art, records, books and decor.

This was my first experience with custom cabinetry and it was worth the extra money and effort to me. I love how they reach the ceiling and look like they were always a part of the home.

Custom Tiled Fireplace:

We designed our fireplace from scratch after the original fireplace got (accidentally) destroyed during floor renovation. I took the opportunity to dive DEEP into Pinterest for a style that matched our home and felt classic and traditional.

The elements of the fireplace I love most as the addition of the bench to the front (or as my 4-year-old calls it “the stage,” haha) as well as the herringbone brick firebox. This is a working gas fireplace that you can turn on with a remote control.

I first chose the subway tile from Fireclay Tile in the color “Rosemary.” Next, I found a paint color (Meadow Sage by HGTV Sherwin Williams) that matched the tile as closely as I could find. I am really happy with the match, and most of all, how it all feels very intentional and cohesive.

Shop My Living Room:

Sources: Pink Velvet Sofa / Maze Rug / Coffee Table / Boucle Chairs / Chandelier / Tile / Rattan Sconces

More Living Room Tours:

• ’70s Pink Living Room Makeover
• Emma’s Main Living Room Tour
• Cozy Living Room Makeover
• Elsie’s Living Room Tour (Before + After)

This year, I thought I’d jump on the tree skirt train and start with three easy no-sew options for my first year.

The good news is that these tree skirts really are so easy to make, but the bad news is that (unless you have three trees) you have to pick just one!

Related: No-Sew Glitter Star Tree Skirt DIY

Supplies:
-fabric (felt or faux fur in our case)
–hot glue gun
-matching ribbon
–fabric scissors
-ruler and marker

OK, here are the overall directions for your tree skirt. I’ll give you the variation details for each specific one below.

Step 1: First, we are going to cut a big circle out of our fabric. An easy way to get an even circle is to make a big square that is at least the width of your tree skirt (I have a small tree so I needed at least 40″ wide).

Fold the square in half to make a long rectangle (20″ x 40″), fold that rectangle in half at the middle vertical line (20″ x 20″).

When using thin fabric-like felt, you can even make another fold to make your square a triangle like I did in the first picture (the fur is a little too thick to do that many folds).

No matter how many times you fold your fabric, just use a ruler and measure out half your circle diameter (so 20″ for me) from the center of your folded square all the way across your folded fabric.

Cut through the layers across the marked line with fabric scissors, and you should have a circle when you unfold it.

Step 2: To make the small middle circle for your tree trunk, fold your fabric circle in half and place a round can or jar halfway across the middle point of your fold. Trace the half circle and cut with fabric scissors.

Step 3: Leave the fabric folded and cut the fold open on just one of the sides. This opening will allow you to place your skirt over the base of the tree.

Step 4: To make the small ties that will keep your skirt closed once it’s on the tree base, cut 6 pieces of 6″ ribbon. Use a hot glue gun to glue them to the underside of your skirt in sets of 2.

Those are the basic instructions. Let’s get to the details!

How to Make a Pom Pom Tree Skirt:

For the pom pom skirt, all you have to do is follow the basic directions and then hot glue pom pom trim around the edge of the skirt. I love jumbo pom poms, so I bought the biggest trim I could find at the local craft store. 

How to Make a Scalloped Tree Skirt:

To make a scalloped edge skirt, trace the bottom half of a round item (like a ribbon spool) all the way around the edge of the skirt once you cut your large circle.

I thought it would be fun to add a white tip to the edge of the scallops to make it look like little snow banks. So, once all the grey scallops were cut, I traced the edge onto some white felt as well.

After cutting the white scallops, I used fabric glue (although the hot glue gun would work, too) to secure the snow tips onto the grey.

How to Make a Faux Fur Tree Skirt:

The fur skirt is the easiest one because you have the least amount of things to add to it, but you have to be a little slower when cutting out your circles to keep the length of the fur intact around the edges.

I used the folding method (in step 1) to mark my cutting path, but I didn’t cut all the layers at once like I did with the felt.

I kept flipping and refolding the fur so I could mark all the way around the circle, and then only cut one layer deep making very small cuts as I went.

Tip: Try to keep the bottom blade of your scissors scraping as close to the backing of the fur as possible and that will also keep you from chopping the ends of your fur short.

After you make all your cuts into the fur, take it outside and give it a good shake so it won’t shed any more fur bits later.

It was kind of bananas how quickly I could make all three skirts. So these really are fast and easy options for your tree!

Elsie’s tree agreed to model the skirts for our pictures (we love a white Christmas tree over here with some pretty garland).

We’ve also got a ton of Christmas content in our archives, so browse through there for more holiday projects and recipes! xo, Laura

Print

3 Easy No-Sew Tree Skirts

3 quick ways to make a tree skirt (no-sew!)

Keyword tree skirts

Author Laura Gummerman

Equipment

• fabric scissors
• hot glue gun
• ruler and marker

Ingredients

• fabric felt or faux fur in our case
• matching ribbon

Instructions

• First, we are going to cut a big circle out of our fabric. An easy way to get an even circle is to make a big square that is at least the width of your tree skirt (I have a small tree so I needed at least 40″ wide).
• Fold the square in half to make a long rectangle (20″ x 40″), fold that rectangle in half at the middle vertical line (20″ x 20″).
• When using thin fabric-like felt, you can even make another fold to make your square a triangle like I did in the first picture (the fur is a little too thick to do that many folds).
• No matter how many times you fold your fabric, just use a ruler and measure out half your circle diameter (so 20″ for me) from the center of your folded square all the way across your folded fabric.
• Cut through the layers across the marked line with fabric scissors, and you should have a circle when you unfold it.
• To make the small middle circle for your tree trunk, fold your fabric circle in half and place a round can or jar halfway across the middle point of your fold. Trace the half circle and cut with fabric scissors.
• Leave the fabric folded and cut the fold open on just one of the sides. This opening will allow you to place your skirt over the base of the tree.
• To make the small ties that will keep your skirt closed once it’s on the tree base, cut 6 pieces of 6″ ribbon. Use a hot glue gun to glue them to the underside of your skirt in sets of 2.

Pom Pom Tree Skirt:

• For the pom pom skirt, all you have to do is follow the basic directions and then hot glue pom pom trim around the edge of the skirt. I love jumbo pom poms, so I bought the biggest trim I could find at the local craft store. 

Scalloped Tree Skirt:

• To make a scalloped edge skirt, trace the bottom half of a round item (like a ribbon spool) all the way around the edge of the skirt once you cut your large circle.
• After cutting the white scallops, I used fabric glue (although the hot glue gun would work, too) to secure the snow tips onto the grey.

Faux Fur Tree Skirt:

• The fur skirt is the easiest one because you have the least amount of things to add to it, but you have to be a little slower when cutting out your circles to keep the length of the fur intact around the edges.
• I used the folding method (in step 1) to mark my cutting path, but I didn’t cut all the layers at once like I did with the felt.
• I kept flipping and refolding the fur so I could mark all the way around the circle, and then only cut one layer deep making very small cuts as I went.
• Tip: Try to keep the bottom blade of your scissors scraping as close to the backing of the fur as possible and that will also keep you from chopping the ends of your fur short.

How do you know you need or want a sectional verses a regular sofa? Do you need a custom-sized sectional or will a ready-to-buy option work?

We’ll help you navigate some of those important questions before you buy to help you feel confident that you are picking the best sectional sofa that’s just right for you!

Want styling tips for your living room? Check out these room tours!

• 70s Pink Living Room Makeover (Before + After!)
• Elsie’s Entry Living Room Reveal
• Easy Tips for a Living Room Refresh
• Laura’s Den Refresh
• Mandi’s Living Room Reveal

Why Buy a Sectional? What Are the Benefits?

In general, the sectional sofa is going to be different from a traditional sofa in that it:

• Has more space/seating for larger families or parties. Having that extra section on it means that you can fit more people at a time for parties or gatherings.

• Fills out space or sectioning space in rooms that need it. Depending on your room, having an L-shaped couch or curved section can help take up empty space and put it to use. Or, it can help section off one space from another with the back of the couch as a divider between the spaces.

• Allows loungers to use the additional section to sprawl out more and put their feet up without having to have an additional ottoman nearby.

It’s good to keep in mind that it also comes in sleeper sofa options, so that it can provide some guest accommodation if you don’t have a dedicated guest room.

How Do I Measure for a Sectional to Know if it Will Fit?

Although it may feel a bit silly, we are big fans of taking the measurements for the sectional you are considering and blocking out those measurements on the floor with painter’s tape (where you think it would go).

That way, you can see exactly how large it is in the space and make sure you still have room for important items like side tables, coffee tables, accent chairs, or whatever other furniture you are wanting to use in the space.

Blocking out the size also helps you make sure that you have enough room for clear walkways around the sectional so that your walking paths don’t feel obstructed.

Other Things to Consider With Sectional Measuring:

• How tall is the sectional? If you have a lot of low profile pieces in the room, buying something really tall may look out of place.
• Is it going next to or in front of a window? Depending on the window height, you may want a more low profile piece to block less light (and you may want a fabric that is more UV light resistant to minimize fading).
• Do you want a sectional that’s reversible? If you think you may reconfigure your space in the near-ish future, you may want to think about a reversible sectional so that you have more floor plan options in the future with any changes you want to make.

TIP: Make sure to find out how big the sections are and where they come apart so that you know all the necessary pieces will fit through doorways and hallways before ordering!!

What Type of Coffee Table goes Best With a Sectional?

Since coffee tables are an essential part of any couch setup, it’s good to think about what shape of coffee table fits in best with a sectional.

Generally a round coffee table fits best with a sectional design. It gives you plenty of space for food and drink, is accessible from any protruding sections off the main sofa area, and you won’t hit your knees on it in the corners.

If you have a corner or an L-shaped sectional with right angles in the corners, a rectangle or square coffee table may work best. Just keep enough room for walkways and knees when sitting.

Shopping for a coffee table? Check out The Best Coffee Tables (Splurge + Save)

Can I Get a Custom Sectional Sofa to Fit My Unique Needs and Space?

Yes! There are plenty of modular sectional sofa designs where you can “create your own” size by combining different sized sections together. It’s a great option when you have a unique size space or just can’t find what you’re looking for.

There are also some companies that offer the option to build your own size from the start (West Elm offers it as well), so you can get exactly what you want in your style and fabric choice.

Types of Sectional Sofas:

L-Shaped Sectional:

Apt2B Sampson L-Shaped Sectional

West Elm Dalton L-Shaped Sectional

One of the most popular designs, the L-shaped sectional is a smaller option that has a chaise section that comes off of the main sofa trunk so you have the option to sit or recline.

It’s great for those who don’t have a lot of room to work with but still want more seating options, or the ability to lounge without moving an ottoman back and forth.

U-Shaped Sectional:

Twanisha Upholstered U-Shaped Sectional

West Elm Harmony U-Shaped Sectional

This shape is larger than a standard L-shape as it has two chaises (or sections) off the main sofa and works better in larger rooms for the maximum amount of seating space.

Perfect for bigger family rooms, this type of seating makes it easier for larger crowds to all hang out together.

Corner Sectional:

Burrow Slope Nomad Leather Corner Sectional

Crate and Barrel Aris Corner Sectional

A corner sectional is similar to an L-shape but instead of a backless chaise coming off of the main sofa part, you get two sections at a right angle that both have full backs and armrests on them.

The advantage here is that you can use one side as a chaise if you feel like lounging, but you can also seat people more comfortably since there is also a full back to lean upon as well.

Curved Sectional:

Pottery Barn Redondo Curved Sectional Sofa

Jedson Curved Sectional Sofa

Curved sofas are also a great choice for conversation areas, as there is no awkward corner seat and all the people are facing each other. You’ll also want a larger space for this design and definitely a curved coffee table to follow the curved lines.

Modular Sectional:

West Elm Melborne Modular Sectional

Studio McGee for Target Modular Sectional

Modular sofas come in sections so they are an easy way to build-you-own custom size and shape that can be potentially rearranged, depending on what you buy.

Some people will even use one section as a matching accent chair, so that’s another possibility to consider.

Sleeper Sectional:

West Elm Harris Sleeper Sofa with Storage Chaise

Devion Sleeper Sofa with Storage Chaise

(It’s Also Reversible!)

Sleeper sectionals are great because they give you an option for a makeshift guest room whenever you need an extra bed, but they can be your main TV or reading spot again once your guests go home.

Want tips on How To Have A Guest Room (When You Don’t Have A Guest Room)? Check out our ideas!

Reversible Sectional:

West Elm Eddy Reversible Sofa

Rivet Aiden Reversible Leather Sectional

Reversible sectionals are usually an L-shaped sectional that has the option of moving the chaise section from one side to another.

This is a great purchase for someone who rearranges furniture around their home often, moves a lot, or isn’t sure which configuration may fit a room in the future so that you have options as needed.

What Type of Fabric is Best for a Sectional?

Like a regular sofa, you’ll want to keep in mind when the sectional is going to be used, how much it’s going to be used, and who is going to use it to determine the best fabric choice.

When will it be used? If you’re using it for lots of parties and gatherings with food and drink around, you may consider something that is more spill-proof like a performance fabric or a leather option where it’s easier to wipe up spills.

An untreated white linen may not be a good choice if you are president of the weekly red wine club, if you know what we mean.

How much is it going to be used? You can get away with more delicate fabrics or non-performance lighter colors on a piece that’s used by less people or not as often.

For example, a fussier boucle fabric can totally work in an extra sitting room that isn’t your main couch or if it’s only you and your conscientious partner who will use it as a reading area.

High-use sectionals should have performance fabrics (look for the fabric descriptions when buying to see which are easier to clean or hold up longer over time).

While leathers can hold up very well with use, softer leathers will show wear faster than a harder or shinier leather, but some people enjoy the character of the worn-in look.

Who is going to use it? If the answer is “6 children and 3 dogs on the daily,” then you need to make sure it’s a tough or treated fabric that can keep up the pace of spills and accidents.

We love leather options with kids as it’s easier to clean up spills, but some animals may have claws that leave marks if that bothers you as they jump up and down.

Also, some fabrics may be spill-resistance but have a weave that traps pet hair more easily and make it harder to vacuum when company is on their way.

There are performance and non-performance versions of most fabrics, so check the fabric descriptions carefully and a lot of companies will clearly designate which fabrics are stain-resistant or pet-friendly as well.

TIP: There are sectionals with removable cushion covers, so if you are worried about spills and stains, covers that can go in the wash may be a big plus for you!

Looking for More Home Decor Items?

• The Best Living Room Rugs (Splurge + Save)
• 25+ Round Coffee Tables You’ll Love For Your Home
• The Best Floral Wallpaper Designs
• The Cutest Sofas Under $1,000
• The Best Blackout Curtains

Like most of you (I bet), we spend a large percentage of our time in the living room. It has our TV, fireplace, and is set up to be the centrally located hub of the house, as well.

As you can see, the dark floors and fireplace in the “before” are a big contrast to the brighter “after” photo. We also took off the front of the old wood-burning fireplace and had a gas log fireplace installed instead. We love it!!

A fireside hang is one of my favorite things in life (and all through winter).

The biggest change in this room is definitely the floor, though. We had a huge issue with the previous tile floor coming up off the subfloor to where it was cracking and breaking all over the place (due to poor installation) and there were piles (not exaggerating!) of loose grout chunks all over the place.

We had to wear slippers or shoes for the first nine months of living there so your feet weren’t grey with grout dust or cut by a broken tile edge—fun!!

The white oak flooring was a very long ordeal to get done correctly, but we love how it came out! It felt like such a treat to walk around in bare feet, haha …

My husband affectionally calls this art print “hot dog girl,” but I love the artist and have several of her pieces throughout the house.

You can find more cute & affordable living room wall art in this post!

I know some people are not for painting stone, and that’s OK, but I really love how the painted stone lets you see the nooks and crannies of the texture even better than when it was all a dark color.

We added a vented gas log set (with these birch logs in the 30″ size) and converted the fireplace to gas instead of wood burning—it’s for sure the best spot in the house once winter rolls around. We like to pull over the coffee table and do puzzles with Lola in front of it at night.

Enjoying this room tour before + after? Check out my …

• ‘70s Wave Dining Room Makeover
• Daisy Wallpaper Kid’s Room Makeover
• Pink Star Main Bedroom Makeover
• Bright and Airy Hallway Makeover
• Organized Entryway Makeover

I like to have at least one hanging plant in most spaces when I can, and you can’t go wrong with a simple brass planter. Those fishbone cactus plants are one of my favorites for hanging planters, and they are pretty easy to keep alive (so that’s a plus for me).

I really wanted a cozy fireside chair, and this Turoy swivel chair is basically perfection for the upscale vintage vibe I was going for. The swivel part gets used a lot to turn back and forth from TV watching to fire gazing (and our cats love to sleep on it, too).

Boucle fabric is also kiiiind of an obsession for me and I love the cozy texture it adds.

I had the hardest time finding a rug I liked for our living room until I found this pink terrazzo rug. It adds color, print, and visual texture and it’s super easy to vacuum, as well.

That mushroom coffee table (similar here) and gold cone side table (similar here) also adds to the ’70s vibes, and I love them.

There was a $1,000 fluted credenza I was eyeing last year, but I just couldn’t bring myself to spend that (plus shipping) on the item, so I did this IKEA hack on a Besta sideboard, and I’m SO happy with how it turned out!

I think it’s one of the best looking DIYs I’ve done—you really can’t tell that the fluting was added on and it looks luxe for less. Here’s a smaller cabinet if you like that fluted look.

Just a little shoutout to our Frame TV. If you haven’t seen those, I’ve been eyeing them for a few years as I love how they look just like a framed piece of art on the wall when not in use.

When our TV started losing rows of pixels last year, we decided to go for the Frame (with a white frame option) and I’m so glad we did.

I can put family photos, seasonal art, or digital art from Etsy up on the screen in a flash, and it feels like just another print on the wall rather than sticking out in an obnoxious way.

How good are those windows?? So good. We took out a bunch of overgrown bushes that were covering up half the view, so now you can see all the seasons and magical snowstorms in a more panoramic view.

We installed some light filtering roller shades over the windows since the sun comes in that side of the house during the winter, and makes it hard to watch TV during the day. It also helps the room not get as hot with the shades down in the summer.

I’m not always a matchy-matchy person with furniture, but I actually love having a boucle chair and the same fabric for our curved Kayra sofa, as well.

The curved sofa is such a fun piece to have as one of the main things in the home, and it really brings the retro factor up a notch while the boucle fabric keeps it modern.

And if you’re curious about having pets and a toddler with white furniture, I hear you! I do think about that stuff when I choose home decor, but I also tend to do what I want and just deal with life as it happens.

We’ve had lots of occasions to spot clean the furniture but I’ve gotten to them quickly, and so far everything still looks great! Not for everyone, but it works for me

Love those round pom-pom pillows—so fun and they are a nice solid contrast to my fluffy pink pillows as well.

I made those built-in shelves last fall, and while we may change up that area a bit if we ever add a mantle to the fireplace (which I would like to), I love having the shelves for holiday decor and adding some greenery to that wall.

We also had the flimsy storage area at the bottom rebuilt to be three cabinets, so we have a great spot for books and toys that we want to keep near but out of sight when the room is tidy (which is sometimes but not always, haha).

For shelf decor, items like letter boards, cool bookends, vintage/pretty colored books, prints (here’s the “take it easy” and “here comes the sun” prints) and family photos, and plants are usually my staples (these small fluted planters are great).

I also like to add a few unique finds like vintage trinkets and whatnot (that big clear crystal is a vintage find from a decade ago that I still like a lot).

I adore the Sketch restaurant in London that’s all over the internet with their velvet pink booths, and I wanted to make a mini version of their gallery walls (that are just fun black and white line drawings) to create an easy black and white gallery wall DIY.

I chose these prints for my wall (1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6), but I really want to get three more and make it a set of nine sometime next year.

Check out this post to create your own Easy Black and White Gallery Wall!

I’m a sucker for a good globe light fixture and this one is great since it’s the perfect mix of vintage and modern.

Overall, this room feels so bright and happy now that we’ve refreshed the space in a major way. We also have plans to paint the outside so the fireplace portion on the exterior of the house will match the inside.

You’ll have that indoor/outdoor feel again that you get seeing both through the big glass windows (a very Frank Lloyd Wright-ish kind of thing that I love).

Feeling cozy in your home can be so important, and I love that this room gives us a place to relax and enjoy each other throughout the day.

Since this area hadn’t been renovated yet last holiday season, I can’t wait to put up our tree and all my decorations to make the room as magical as I possibly can. What do you think, does it feel happy and inviting to you?! xo. Laura

Credits // Author and Photography: Laura Gummerman. 

Plus, adding new envelope pillow cover to your space is one of the quickest ways to give your couch or bed a mini makeover. You can slip it on and off with the seasons— but you might never want to put this velvet pillow away!

If you’ve got access to a sewing machine and can stitch a straight-ish line, you can fill your couch with a lush, quilted velvet pillow for a little more hygge this winter. Warning: you’ll want to take more naps.

Adding simple stitch lines to the front piece of your pillow is an easy way to add a subtle pattern and add more interest to your pile.

I even added some mid-century looking star shapes to my brick red pillow to give it a subtle nod to the holidays. You can layer these up or mix and match with different woven cotton or knitted wool pillows for a visual feast at the end of your couch. Supplies:
-2/3 yard of wide selvedge pink velvet fabric for 16″ pillows and 1/2 yard for 12″ pillows
–pillow insert of matching size (16″ pillow insert for 16″ pillow, etc.)
-sewing machine and coordinating thread
-fabric scissors
-straight pins
-chalk or marker
-acrylic ruler
–cutting mat (optional)

Since these are a bit larger, I’m going to share the process of making the gold version of the quilted lines pillow using a smaller sample. It’s a 6″ x 6″ size instead of 16″ x 16″.

No matter what size pillow you are wanting to create, cut the fabric to be the same size as the pillow insert. You don’t want to add an inch to make it fit or it will be loose and floppy. Ask me how I know this.

Step One: For a 16″ pillow, cut one piece of fabric that measures 16″ x 16″ for the front.

Then, cut another two pieces that measure 12″ x 16″ for the back pieces. You want your two back pieces to overlap by at least 5″. For diagonal stripes on your pillow, turn your 16″ square piece so that the velvet side is facing down.

Use your acrylic ruler and cutting mat to draw straight lines as far apart as you’d like them for your design. I suggest either 1/2″ or 1″ apart. Just keep it consistent and it’ll look great!

If you’d like a star design, use your acrylic ruler to draw a variety of star shapes on the back side. Just be sure you’re back stitching at the beginning and ending of a stitch line to keep your stitches from unraveling.

Step Two: Follow your stitch lines with your sewing machine and trim up your ends when you’re finished.

Step Three: For each of the two back sides, fold one of the long edges down once for a 1/2″ and then again 1/2″. Pin in place. Stitch along the folded edge. Make sure you’re folding onto the wrong side so that the right side of the fabric is showing after you’ve stitched together as shown.

Step Four: Place one of your back sides on top of the front piece so that the right sides are facing each other and three of the edges are lined up as shown. Pin in place along the three edges.

Step Five: Repeat with the second back side. Your hemmed edges should be overlapping a bit more than mine show in the example. Pin in place.

Stitch all the way around the perimeter of your pillow so that you’re stitching through both pieces as you go. Remove pins.

Step Six: Turn pillow right side out, poke out the corners, and insert your pillow form. Fluff and enjoy!

I love the way the light catches the velvet. It makes you want to grab a good book and cozy up for the evening!Are we still karate chopping our pillows? I think these didn’t have enough weight to them to stay chopped.

Find yourself a faux down insert for an even more high end effect and everyone will be asking where you bought your pillow! – Rachel

Looking for more cute pillow DIYS?

• Round Velvet Pillow DIY
• How to Sew a Zippered Throw Pillow
• Rainbow Roving Pillow DIY
• The Cutest Throw Pillow Roundup!

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Quilted Velvet Pillow DIY

An easy pillow tutorial using velvet fabric

Keyword pillow diy, velvet pillow

Author Rachel Denbow

Equipment

• sewing machine

Ingredients

• 2/3 yard of wide selvedge pink velvet fabric for 16″ pillows and 1/2 yard for 12″ pillows
• pillow insert of matching size 16″ pillow insert for 16″ pillow, etc.
• sewing machine and coordinating thread
• fabric scissors
• straight pins
• chalk or marker
• acrylic ruler
• cutting mat optional

Instructions

• For a 16″ pillow, cut one piece of fabric that measures 16″ x 16″ for the front.

  Then, cut another two pieces that measure 12″ x 16″ for the back pieces. You want your two back pieces to overlap by at least 5″. For diagonal stripes on your pillow, turn your 16″ square piece so that the velvet side is facing down.

  Use your acrylic ruler and cutting mat to draw straight lines as far apart as you’d like them for your design. I suggest either 1/2″ or 1″ apart. Just keep it consistent and it’ll look great!

  If you’d like a star design, use your acrylic ruler to draw a variety of star shapes on the back side. Just be sure you’re back stitching at the beginning and ending of a stitch line to keep your stitches from unraveling.
• Follow your stitch lines with your sewing machine and trim up your ends when you’re finished.
• For each of the two back sides, fold one of the long edges down once for a 1/2″ and then again 1/2″. Pin in place. Stitch along the folded edge. Make sure you’re folding onto the wrong side so that the right side of the fabric is showing after you’ve stitched together as shown.
• Place one of your back sides on top of the front piece so that the right sides are facing each other and three of the edges are lined up as shown. Pin in place along the three edges.
• Repeat with the second back side. Your hemmed edges should be overlapping a bit more than mine show in the example. Pin in place.

  Stitch all the way around the perimeter of your pillow so that you’re stitching through both pieces as you go. Remove pins.
• Turn pillow right side out, poke out the corners, and insert your pillow form. Fluff and enjoy!

Notes

Since these are a bit larger, I’m going to share the process of making the gold version of the quilted lines pillow using a smaller sample. It’s a 6″ x 6″ size instead of 16″ x 16″. No matter what size pillow you are wanting to create, cut the fabric to be the same size as the pillow insert. You don’t want to add an inch to make it fit or it will be loose and floppy.

Credits//Author and Photography: Rachel Denbow.

I love seeing the wooden spider and bat garlands in the stores, and I thought it would be fun to make my own wooden spider garland so I could customize it a bit. This is a great craft to make with kids that are glue gun age, as well.

Garlands are one of my favorite holiday decorations to use because they are so fast to put up and you can use them year after year as well! String them under a mantle, across a doorway, or over some art—they can go just about anywhere!

Love Halloween Garlands? Check Out These Posts!

• Easy Yarn Tassel Ghost Garland
• Easy Spider Garland DIY (With Pipe Cleaners!)
• Yarn Pumpkin Garland DIY
• Candy Corn Garland DIY

Tools Needed:

• glue gun
• scissors or wire cutters

Supplies:

• 2″ wooden circles
• wooden stir sticks or popsicle sticks
• black spray paint (I really like this one!)
• jewelry bales
• google eyes
• white paint pen
• black twine
• wooden beads (I used the 12mm size)

How To Make A Wooden Spider Garland

1. Use scissors or wire cutters to cut a wooden stick into four equal pieces. Glue the rounded edge to a piece with straight edges at an angle to create a leg. Repeat until you have four legs per spider (you’ll want 6-8 spiders per garland).

2. Glue four legs to the back of your wooden circle.

3. Spray paint your spiders black and allow paint to fully dry.

4. Glue jewelry bales onto the back of each spider above the head area.

5. Glue on your google eyes and draw on a smile with your paint pen.

6. Thread your beads and spiders onto your twine (make a knot where the spiders are so they don’t slide around) and you are ready to hang your garland! I used seven beads between each spider for reference.

TIP: Thread your spiders onto your twine backwards so that they are facing front when you tie a knot!

I have to say, I really love how this garland came out! It’s the perfect amount of cute, fun, and a little bit spooky, which is how I like my Halloween decor.

You can totally customize this with the size of circles and legs you use, paint the spiders whatever color you like, and add different beads or tassels to the garland.

And if you are into Halloween decor, but not into DIYs, check out our ultimate list of Halloween decor for your home. Happy decorating! xo. Laura

For More Halloween DIY, Check Out These Posts:

• Super Easy Ghost Decorations
• 15 Easy DIY Halloween Decorations
• Halloween Countdown Calendar DIY

FAQ

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Wooden Spider Garland DIY

Garland made of wooden spiders and beads

Keyword garland, halloween

Prep Time 10 minutes minutes

Cook Time 20 minutes minutes

paint dry time 1 hour hour

Total Time 1 hour hour 30 minutes minutes

Servings 1 garland

Author Laura Gummerman

Cost $10

Equipment

• scissors or wire cutters
• glue gun

Ingredients

• 6-8 2" wooden circles
• wooden stir sticks or popsicle sticks four per spider
• spray paint black
• jewelry bales
• google eyes
• paint pen white
• twine black
• wooden beads make sure the bead openings are big enough to go on the twine

Instructions

• Use scissors or wire cutters to cut a wooden stick into four equal pieces. Glue the rounded edge to a piece with straight edges at an angle to create a leg. Repeat until you have four legs per spider (you’ll want 6-8 spiders per garland).
• Glue four legs to the back of your wooden circle.
• Spray paint your spiders black and allow paint to fully dry.
• Glue jewelry bales onto the back of each spider above the head area.
• Glue on your google eyes and draw on a smile with your paint pen.
• Thread your beads and spiders onto your twine (make a knot where the spiders are so they don’t slide around) and you are ready to hang your garland!

Notes

TIP: Thread your spiders onto your twine backwards so that they are facing front when you tie a knot!

Credits//Author and Photography: Laura Gummerman. 

I both like and dislike the feeling of familiarity this room gives me. I sometimes wonder if it’s the kind of job I do that makes me feel this way.

As my workplace is mainly in the online sphere, I’m often bombarded with images of other people changing and redecorating their homes, new products being launched, old trends being recycled or thrown out, etc.

I notice that if I don’t set a limit on my time online, that massive consumption of content can lead to me feeling less inspired to create (and more unsatisfied with things that might have brought me joy before). I talk a little bit about that here.

And the urge to buy another new thing is stronger than ever, setting off an entire room makeover that probably didn’t need to happen. Am I making sense?

I know I’m digressing a little, but I promise you there is a point to this rambling self-reflection. What I’m trying to say is that with all the time I’ve spent at home this year (as result of Ms. Rona), I’ve found myself becoming increasingly bored with my entrance—in particular the cabinet (pictured below).

As a result of consuming other people’s content online, I had spotted a few gorgeous alternative cabinets and immediately thought that I should just buy a new one.

Thankfully, my sensible voice took over. “Medina, the cabinet you already have is fine. It’s functional, sturdy, looks pretty and truthfully, you don’t have the cash. Why not update it in some way instead if you’re craving that feeling of newness?”

See what I mean? Sensible. I’ll admit, being in my own company quite a lot this year due to England’s many lockdowns has really ramped up these these inner conversations that I have with myself. So, I listened and decided to hack my IVAR cabinet instead (using materials I already had in my home) in a really simple way.

And I documented it just in case you might want to try something similar.

How to Add Cane Webbing to an IKEA IVAR Cabinet

MATERIALS NEEDED FOR THIS IKEA IVAR HACK:

• IVAR cabinet door
• pencil
• angle ruler/level
• cane webbing
• sandpaper or sanding machine
• jigsaw
• staple gun
• drill driver with 20″ speed drill spade
  

HOW TO:

Here’s a short video of this IVAR Cabinet hack and the DIY steps:

1. The first thing I did was remove the door from the IVAR cabinet. This is easy enough to do with the drill driver or even with a manual screwdriver. 

2. I then laid the door flat on the ground. The doors come with wooden battens fixed across the back that you don’t need. Remove them as well if you feel they will get in your way. 

3. Find the center of the door and use that to mark out a diamond shape. You can use a level to ensure your angles are straight or you can use an angle ruler. I’ll admit, my diamond wasn’t very perfect (I rushed it a little but don’t be like me, absolutely take your time with this part).

4. Next, it’s time to cut out the diamond shape with a jigsaw. To do this, you will need to make some holes for the blade of the jigsaw to fit in for cutting. Secure the door to a raised surface with clamps before you start drilling and cutting.

5. Using a drill driver with a 20″ spade attachment, drill a hole at each corner of the diamond, making sure the holes are located inside the lines of the diamond shape.

6. Next, place the jigsaw blade through a corner hole and begin cutting along the pencil line until you reach the next corner. Take your time to ensure you get a clean cut.

7. Once you’ve cut along all the lines, the diamond shape will come apart. Sand the inner edges of the shape to smooth them out.

8. Next, cut your cane panel to size. It should fit the dimension of the diamond (I went for a rectangle panel). Note: If your cane webbing is hard to work with, you can soak it in water for 15 minutes to make it more pliable.

9. Staple the cane all the way around the diamond at the back of the door, pulling to ensure the cane webbing is taut.

10. Secure the door in place! Voila. If you have two doors, repeat this step again but make sure your diamond shape matches the measurements of the other door.

Optional: You can also add some wooden beading or trim to the edges of the cane for a neater look. As far as the design, you could cut out a rectangle space or an arch.

It feels and looks like a different cabinet.

What do you think? Do you think you might try this? Let me know in the comments below. You can also check out my blog and Instagram, and the ABM archives for more easy rental decorating ideas! xo, Medina

P.S. You can see Medina’s home tour here!

Credits // Author: Medina Grillo. Photography: Grillo Designs.

I knew it just wasn’t going to be in our budget. Once I realized that the size and fluted details were the main thing I liked about the piece, I decided to hunt down a budget-friendly plain sideboard that I could add some fluting details to and the IKEA Besta was just the right size and price for the job!

This is definitely a bit of a time consuming project, but let me tell you that the results and the savings made it all totally worth it! There’s only thing I wish I’d done differently in the process, but I’ll give you a head’s up so you can avoid that mistake if you make your own … here we go!!

Supplies:
–IKEA Besta sideboard
–glass top for IKEA Besta (optional)
–16 pack of half round moulding
–miter saw or hand saw and saw box to cut moulding strips
-caulk and caulk gun (I like this caulk since it’s paintable in 20 minutes)
–wood filler
–B-I-N primer
–round spindle brush
-Quart of satin paint (in Melting Icicles by Behr)
–fine sandpaper
–nail gun and 3/4″ brad nails OR epoxy glue (a nail setter is helpful too if you are using a nail gun)
–painter’s tape
-1/4″ birch plywood sheet and either a jig saw/circular saw/table saw to cut to size (optional)

First, you’ll want to lightly sand the doors and sides of your console to rough up the surface just a bit.

Also, to make ours looks a little more trendy, I also took off the legs that match the Besta and just put it on the little round discs that come with the units, in case you want to put them on the floor. I did this at the end of the project, but I wish I had done it at the beginning so I’m adding that step in here in case you want to do it too.

Then, you’ll cut your half round moulding into 33 strips that are the exact height of the doors on the front of the sideboard, and 14 strips that are the exact height of the sides of the sideboard (the sides are a little longer than the front doors).

Just measure and cut one strip that’s a perfect height and then use that as your guide stick to cut the rest of that length. Use your sandpaper to rough up the front rounded length of the molding a little and also use it to sand down any rough edges on the cut ends from the saw.

Next, you’ll want to attach your strips to the sideboard. To find the right spacing, divide out seven of the side strips for each side, and 11 of the door strips for each door.

I found it easiest to first place all the front pieces on top of the sideboard to evenly space them out visually, and then I would take the doors off and attach one at a time to the door on the floor with painter’s tape so I could still gauge the spacing off of where the other strips were sitting.

The spacing is just about a 1″ gap between each strip, so just do your best to eyeball it and once it’s all together you won’t really be able to tell if one’s a little further apart with all those stripes going on.

You’ll notice that since you are wanting to have 1″ gaps between each strip, the door edges that are next to another door will only have 1/2″ gaps between the strip and that edge of the door—that way when it’s hanging by the door next to it, that other 1/2″ gap that starts the next door will look like a full 1″ gap when put together.

So those strips will be closer to the edge but the strips that start and end the front will be a full 1″ away from the edge since there are no doors next to those edges.

The photo above is of the third door on the right, so there’s only a 1/2″ space on the left side (since that’s next to another door) but a 1″ gap on the right side (there’s no door next to that panel as it’s the end).

Once all the strips were attached with painter’s tape, I used a nail gun to nail near the top, middle, and bottom of each strip. Make sure to line up the top of your strip with the top edge of the sideboard—you want the top to be pretty perfectly lined up and it’s OK if the bottom is a little off since you won’t be able to tell that low down.

Make sure to set the pressure on your brad gun so it’s burying the nail head below the surface so you can fill the hole and it will look nice and flush when filled. It’s helpful to have a nail setter handy in case your nail doesn’t bury itself beneath the surface so you can hammer it fully in if needed.

You can also try a less expensive corded brad nail gun like this one, but I found it wasn’t quite powerful enough to bury the nail head so you’d have to use a nail setter and hammer on each head to bury it. Not impossible, but an extra step.

Since the strips are of a softer material, I put a soft rag under the tip of the nailer so that part wouldn’t make a mark in the strip as you press it down each time you nail. I did three nails per strip—one a few inches from the top, a few inches from the bottom, and near the middle.

If you don’t have a nail gun, you can also glue each strip on with some epoxy, but you’ll need to tape them in place after gluing and use a few strap clamps to keep them tight against the sides (for the doors you can just lay the door on the floor and put heavy books on the strips to weigh them down while they dry).

Just don’t use too much glue or it may squish out the sides while drying and look messy!

For the sides, lay the strips on top to visually space them out like you did for the front, and then tape them in place so you can nail them on.

Next, you’ll want to fill your nail holes with some wood filler (spackle for walls works too since it’s such a small hole). The faster way is to just fill the hole and wipe over it quickly with a damp rag so you don’t have to sand later, but that will leave a small indentation where the hole is.

To completely cover the hole, fill the hole and leave a little mound of extra filler on top of the hole. When the filler is dry, use a fine sandpaper to sand it down smooth and the hole will totally disappear.

Once all the strips were attached and holes were filled, I took my caulk and filled the side gaps on both sides of each moulding strip.

This step may seem a bit over the top, but it makes the strips look completely integrated with the doors and sides rather than just stuck on and makes the whole thing feel and look much more expensive as well (you can see the difference it makes above!).

Just squeeze a small amount of caulk between the cracks and run a damp finger down the line to smooth the caulk and press it into the crease. When the caulk is dry, tape off the top, back, and insides of the doors, and you’re ready to paint!

Now, this is where I’m adding an extra step for you that I wish I had done but didn’t think I needed. Because I roughed up the sideboard and strips with sandpaper, I didn’t think I needed to use this primer (it’s a great prepping primer for painting laminate furniture or other surfaces that don’t take paint as well).

But I could tell once I started painting that the paint would be adhering more easily had I done a coat of that first. I still got it to look good, but it took a little more finessing with the brush to get it to look covered and smoothed than it should have.

I also color matched the sideboard to Melting Icicles by Behr and it’s a perfect match, so I would highly suggest that shade if you don’t have a paint swatch that you can find that matches the color.

I also was SO happy that I picked up a spindle brush when I was gathering supplies for this as I haven’t used one before, but it really made painting the unique shape of the fluting so much easier, so I very highly recommend it for projects like this.

Once the two coats of paint are dry, remove the tape and your new fluted sideboard is almost done!

Now, you can technically be done here at this point and use the glass topper piece that IKEA recommends you use to cover the seam between the two units (this size sideboard is a small and big unit sitting side by side).

But I decided to cut a piece of 1/4″ birch plywood to be the exact size of the top of my sideboard so I could attach it with the nail gun, fill and sand the holes, and then paint it to match the rest of the unit.

The glass top is nice, but it’s a slightly different white and a different material, so it kind of stands out more than I would have liked and adding the thin wooden top worked perfectly!

I just have to say that while I thought this would come out pretty good, I’m just thrilled with the results! It really looks like an expensive piece of furniture and you would never know it was a DIY.

We use this sideboard to house all our TV cords since it’s under our Frame TV (which we love, by the way). But you can use this in a dining room or as an entry table … wherever you like!

And this method of fluting can be used on lots of different projects (you could make a side table like this!), so feel free to use it on other items as well. Hope this inspires you to create something fluted for your home as well! xo. Laura

P.S. Like this post? Check out all our favorite furniture hacks!

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Fluted IKEA BESTA Sideboard Hack

Author Laura Gummerman

Ingredients

• IKEA Besta sideboard
• glass top for IKEA Besta (optional)
• 16 pack of half round moulding
• miter saw or hand saw and saw box to cut moulding strips
• caulk and caulk gun
• wood filler
• B-I-N primer
• round spindle brush
• Quart of satin paint in Melting Icicles by Behr
• fine sandpaper
• nail gun and 3/4″ brad nails OR epoxy glue (a nail setter is helpful too if you are using a nail gun)
• painter’s tape
• 1/4″ birch plywood sheet and either a jig saw/circular saw/table saw to cut to size (optional)

Instructions

• First, you’ll want to lightly sand the doors and sides of your console to rough up the surface just a bit. Also, to make ours looks a little more trendy, I also took off the legs that match the Besta and just put it on the little round discs that come with the units in case you want to put them on the floor. I did this at the end of the project, but I wish I had done it at the beginning, so I’m adding that step in here in case you want to do it too.
• Then, you’ll cut your half round moulding into 33 strips that are the exact height of the doors on the front of the sideboard, and 14 strips that are the exact height of the sides of the sideboard (the sides are a little longer than the front doors). Just measure and cut one strip that’s a perfect height and then use that as your guide stick to cut the rest of that length. Use your sandpaper to rough up the front rounded length of the molding a little and also use it to sand down any rough edges on the cut ends from the saw.
• Next, you’ll want to attach your strips to the sideboard. To find the right spacing, divide out seven of the side strips for each side, and 11 of the door strips for each door. I found it easiest to first place all the front pieces on top of the sideboard to evenly space them out visually, and then I would take the doors off and attach one at a time to the door on the floor with painter’s tape so I could still gauge the spacing off of where the other strips were sitting. The spacing is just about a 1″ gap between each strip so just do your best to eyeball it and once it’s all together you won’t really be able to tell if one’s a little further apart with all those stripes going on.
• You’ll notice that since you are wanting to have 1″ gaps between each strip, the door edges that are next to another door will only have 1/2″ gaps between the strip and that edge of the door—that way when it’s hanging by the door next to it, that other 1/2″ gap that starts the next door will look like a full 1″ gap when put together. So those strips will be closer to the edge but the strips that start and end the front will be a full 1″ away from the edge since there are no doors next to those edges. The photo above is of the third door on the right so there’s only a 1/2″ space on the left side (since that’s next to another door), but a 1″ gap on the right side (there’s no door next to that panel as it’s the end).
• Once all the strips were attached with painter’s tape, I used a nail gun to nail near the top, middle, and bottom of each strip. Make sure to line up the top of your strip with the top edge of the sideboard—you want the top to be pretty perfectly lined up and it’s OK if the bottom is a little off since you won’t be able to tell that low down. Make sure to set the pressure on your brad gun so it’s burying the nail head below the surface so you can fill the hole and it will look nice and flush when filled. It’s helpful to have a nail setter handy in case your nail doesn’t bury itself beneath the surface so you can hammer it fully in if needed. You can also try a less expensive corded brad nail gun like this one, but I found it wasn’t quite powerful enough to bury the nail head so you’d have to use a nail setter and hammer on each head to bury it. Not impossible, but an extra step.
• Since the strips are of a softer material, I put a soft rag under the tip of the nailer so that part wouldn’t make a mark in the strip as you press it down each time you nail. I did three nails per strip—one a few inches from the top, a few inches from the bottom, and near the middle.
• If you don’t have a nail gun, you can also glue each strip on with some epoxy, but you’ll need to tape them in place after gluing and use a few strap clamps to keep them tight against the sides (for the doors you can just lay the door on the floor and put heavy books on the strips to weigh them down while they dry). Just don’t use too much glue or it may squish out the sides while drying and look messy!
• For the sides, lay the strips on top to visually space them out like you did for the front, and then tape them in place so you can nail them on.
• Next, you’ll want to fill your nail holes with some wood filler (spackle for walls works too since it’s such a small hole). The faster way is to just fill the hole and wipe over it quickly with a damp rag so you don’t have to sand later, but that will leave a small indentation where the hole is. To completely cover the hole, fill the hole and leave a little mound of extra filler on top of the hole. When the filler is dry, use a fine sandpaper to sand it down smooth and the hole will totally disappear.
• Once all the strips were attached and holes were filled, I took my caulk and filled the side gaps on both sides of each moulding strip. This step may seem a bit over the top, but it makes the strips look completely integrated with the doors and sides rather than just stuck on and makes the whole thing feel and look much more expensive as well (you can see the difference it makes above!). Just squeeze a small amount of caulk between the cracks and run a damp finger down the line to smooth the caulk and press it into the crease. When the caulk is dry, tape off the top, back, and insides of the doors, and you’re ready to paint!
• Now, this is where I’m adding an extra step for you that I wish I had done but didn’t think I needed. Because I roughed up the sideboard and strips with sandpaper, I didn’t think I needed to use this primer (it’s a great prepping primer for painting laminate furniture or other surfaces that don’t take paint as well), but I could tell once I started painting that the paint would be adhering more easily had I done a coat of that first. I still got it to look good, but it took a little more finessing with the brush to get it to look covered and smoothed than it should have. I also color matched the sideboard to Melting Icicles by Behr and it’s a perfect match, so I would highly suggest that shade if you don’t have a paint swatch that you can find that matches the color. I also was SO happy that I picked up a spindle brush when I was gathering supplies for this as I haven’t used one before, but it really made painting the unique shape of the fluting so much easier, so I very highly recommend it for projects like this. Once the two coats of paint are dry, remove the tape and your new fluted sideboard is almost done!
• Now, you can technically be done here at this point and use the glass topper piece that IKEA recommends you use to cover the seam between the two units (this size sideboard is a small and big unit sitting side by side). But I decided to cut a piece of 1/4″ birch plywood to be the exact size of the top of my sideboard so I could attach it with the nail gun, fill and sand the holes, and then paint it to match the rest of the unit. The glass top is nice, but it’s a slightly different white and a different material, so it kind of stands out more than I would have liked and adding the thin wooden top worked perfectly!

When I moved into this house I wanted to add something to the second (back) living room that tied the space down a little more, if that makes any sense. It’s a large room and probably the space I spend the most time in besides my bedroom and home office. There is a real (wood burning) fireplace in the front living room, but I do love having a mantle to style as well as just the atmosphere/ambiance that a fireplace brings to a space. So, I decided to have a faux fireplace built. To me, it’s not important that it is functional, in that it can burn actual wood or gas and is connected to a chimney (since this is not). This is much more of a decor piece for the space than a heating unit.

And just to be super clear, this is not a DIY. I did not build this faux fireplace myself, I hired a talented local contractor to bring my idea to life. He did a beautiful job and I love how it turned out, so I wanted to share. But if you are looking for a tutorial to build your own faux fireplace, try this one, which you could also tile to be more like mine.

I did take a few photos while the contractor (Daniel) worked on this project so you can see some of the process.

Here is the frame of the fireplace. Once built he tiled it in place as it became very heavy after that point.

I chose this pink rectangle tile, and wanted a herringbone pattern. I love the texture of this tile, and in different lighting it sometimes looks pink and sometimes looks almost lavender to me. This year, I’ve been decorating with mostly warm tones and pink—it just feels very cozy and cheery to me.

Here you can see the tiling in process. Herringbone is one of those patterns that requires a lot more cuts than other, more standard patterns. It takes time and if you’re not DIY-ing expect to pay a little more. This was worth it to me for this project. I just love how it turned out!

I filled the opening with a candelabra and LED candles that I can turn on with a remote. I love turning them on after it gets dark—it’s super romantic feeling, IMO. I may get one of those electric inserts next winter that looks like faux logs and can generate a little heat when turned on. There is an outlet that is accessible in the opening (that I currently have covered since I’m not using it) for this purpose, but so far I haven’t seen a unit that I love the look of. But, I’ll keep looking next year. You can see how Katie created her own cozy fireplace set up here!

Thanks for letting me share my pink tiled faux fireplace! xo. Emma

Need to repair a brick mantle on a fireplace? Check out this post for tips!

Credits // Author: Emma Chapman. Photography: Janae Hardy and Emma Chapman. Photos edited with A Color Story Desktop.